A study and evaluation of a method for forecasting ocean swell waves using wave spectra

An investigation is made of the wave forecasting method of Pierson, Neumann and James of New York University, published as II, 0. Pub. No, 603. The ocean "swell" spectral energy, as predicted by the application of this forecast method is compared to the observed spectral energy present as estimated from ocean wave recording devices installed at the surface and at a depth of 80 feet, in the coastal waters off Davenport, California. The comparison of the observed and forecast spectral energy for nine verification times taken at twelve hour intervals from 28 January 1954 to 1 February 1954 suggested the following conclusions: 1. For the conditions of the investigation, it was the opinion of the authors that the "swell" forecast was operationally useful. 2. The data of this investigation suggested the possibility that the forecast energy spectrum is too high in the low and middle frequencies and too low in the high frequency bands for high wind speeds. 3. The data of this investigation indicated that at certain verification times, energy reductions due to cross-sea interference were important. The authors wish to express their appreciation for the advice and encouragement of Professor J. B. Wickham under whose direction this study was carried out. Appreciation is also expressed to Professor R. L. Wiegel, of the Institute of Engineering Research, Berkeley, California, who made available the wave records upon which this study is based.

Department dc:contributor.department

Aerology

Grantor dc:publisher

Monterey, CA; Naval Postgraduate School

Year dc:date.issued

1957

Authors dc:creator

• Negele, John H.
• Blondin, John L.

Advisor dc:contributor.advisor

• Wickham, J.B.

Handle dc:identifier.uri

https://hdl.handle.net/10945/14625

OAI identifier oai:identifier

oai:calhoun.nps.edu:10945/14625