Wave boundary layer hydrodynamics and cross-shore sediment transport in the surf zone

Coastal erosion and, more generally, evolution of the beach morphology are major coastal engineering problems. Changes in beach morphology mostly occur in the nearshore region, or surf zone. They are caused by the local imbalance of sediment transport, both in long-and cross-shore directions. Cross-shore sediment transport is the small difference between two large components: the on- and offshore transport rates. Both components must be very accurately predicted in order to predict their difference with reasonable accuracy. The physics of on- and offshore sediment transport is however not well understood, and the keystone in its understanding is the characterization of the nearshore wave boundary layer. The goals of this thesis are to investigate the hydrodynamics of nearshore wave boundary layers and to develop an analytical model to predict cross-shore sediment transport rates, both in oscillating water tunnels (OWTs, a commonly used type of experimental facility) and in the sea. This thesis presents a simple conceptual model of the nearshore boundary layer mechanisms responsible for sediment transport. Bed shear stresses are predicted by using a time-varying friction factor. Bedload predictions by this simple model agree with sheet flow measurements if the bed roughness is used as a fitting parameter. To overcome the need for a fitting parameter, a detailed analytical model of the OWT boundary layer hydrodynamics, based on assuming a certain spatial structure and temporal dependence of the eddy viscosity, is derived.

Department dc:contributor.department

Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Dept. of Civil and Environmental Engineering.

Grantor dc:publisher

Massachusetts Institute of Technology

Year dc:date.issued

2009

Author dc:creator

• González Rodríguez, David, Ph. D. Massachusetts Institute of Technology

Advisor dc:contributor.advisor

• Ole Secher Madsen.

• Civil and Environmental Engineering.

Statement dc:rights

• M.I.T. theses are protected by copyright. They may be viewed from this source for any purpose, but reproduction or distribution in any format is prohibited without written permission. See provided URL for inquiries about permission.

Licence dc:rights.uri

• http://dspace.mit.edu/handle/1721.1/7582

Language dc:language.iso

eng

Handle dc:identifier.uri

http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/51613

OAI identifier oai:identifier

oai:dspace.mit.edu:1721.1/51613