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Massachusetts Institute of Technology

Wave-, wind-, and tide-driven circulation at a well-mixed ocean inlet

Abstract

dc:description.abstract

The effects of waves, wind, and bathymetry on tidal and subtidal hydrodynamics at unstratified, shallow New River Inlet, NC, are evaluated using field observations and numerical simulations. Tidal flows are ebb-dominated (-1.5 to 0.6 m/s, positive is inland) inside the main (2 to 5 m deep) channel on the (1 to 2 m deep) ebb shoal, owing to inflow and outflow asymmetry at the inlet mouth. Ebb-dominance of the flows is reduced during large waves (> 1 m) owing to breaking-induced onshore momentum flux. Shoaling and breaking of large waves cause depression (setdown, offshore of the ebb shoal) and super-elevation (setup, on the shoal and in the inlet) of the mean water levels, resulting in changes to the cross-shoal pressure gradient, which can weaken onshore flows. At a 90-degree bend 800-m inland of the inlet mouth, centrifugal acceleration owing to curvature drives two-layered cross-channel flows (0.1 to 0.2 m/s) with surface flows going away from and bottom flows going toward the bend. The depth-averaged dynamics are tidally asymmetric. Subtidal cross-channel flows are correlated (r² > 0.5) with cross-channel wind speed, suggesting that winds are enhancing and degrading the local-curvature induced two-layer flow, and driving three-layer flow.

Degree

thesis:*
Department dc:contributor.department
Joint Program in Oceanography/Applied Ocean Science and Engineering
Grantor dc:publisher
Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Year dc:date.issued
2017

Author and committee

dc:creator, dc:contributor.*
Author dc:creator
  • Wargula, Anna (Anna Elizabeth)
Advisor dc:contributor.advisor
  • Britt Raubenheimer.

Subjects

dc:subject × 3

Rights

dc:rights
Statement dc:rights
  • MIT theses are protected by copyright. They may be viewed, downloaded, or printed from this source but further reproduction or distribution in any format is prohibited without written permission.
Language dc:language.iso
eng

Identifiers

dc:identifier.*
Handle dc:identifier.uri
http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/111741
OAI identifier oai:identifier
oai:dspace.mit.edu:1721.1/111741

Chain of custody

source
Harvested from
MIT
Base URL
dspace.mit.edu/oai/request
Last updated
2026-07-22
Source record
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citation

Wargula, Anna (Anna Elizabeth). Wave-, wind-, and tide-driven circulation at a well-mixed ocean inlet. Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 2017. http://hdl.handle.net/1721.1/111741