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Eastern Washington University

Mathematical modeling of lead climbing falls

Abstract

dc:description.abstract

<p>This thesis presents a force-based mathematical model for simulating dynamic falls in lead sport climbing, with an emphasis on physical realism and empirical validation. The system is modeled as a mass–spring–damper, incorporating gravity, nonlinear rope stiffness, internal damping, and Capstan-style friction at protection points. The goal is to predict peak forces and rope elongation while capturing the complex dynamics of real climbing ropes. Several novel features are introduced. Activation switches ensure forces only engage when the rope is tensioned, preventing premature response. A velocity-sensitive stiffness transition function allows the rope to stiffen smoothly with increasing fall speed, reflecting rate-dependent rope behavior. A hysteresis damping term is included for high fall factors to account for energy loss during rebound. Two modeling approaches are developed. First, a unified force model uses layered physical mechanisms to simulate fall dynamics across different fall factors. This implementation demonstrates the effectiveness of transition stiffening in producing realistic rebound and force attenuation. Second, an interpolation-based model directly fits empirical force–displacement curves from published drop test data, allowing the model to capture nonlinear rope behavior and high-strain dynamics directly from experimental observations. Both approaches successfully capture key aspects of lead fall dynamics, including peak force attenuation, rebound behavior, and rate-dependent rope stiffening. The interpolation model effectively reproduces nonlinear rope response at moderate fall factors, while the unified force model offers greater stability for higher fall conditions. Hysteresis damping improves rebound realism in the unified model but is excluded from the interpolated framework, as empirical data may already reflect these losses. </p>

Degree

thesis:*
Name thesis:degree_name
Master of Science (MS) in Applied Mathematics
Level thesis:degree_level
Thesis
Discipline thesis:degree_discipline
Mathematics
Year
2025

Author and committee

dc:creator, dc:contributor.*
Author dc:creator
  • Evans, Rosemary Christmas

Subjects

dc:subject × 2

Rights

dc:rights
Statement dc:rights
  • Access is available to all users

Identifiers

dc:identifier.*
Repository record dc:identifier
https://dc.ewu.edu/theses/972
OAI identifier oai:identifier
oai:dc.ewu.edu:theses-1970

Chain of custody

source
Harvested from
Eastern Washington University
Base URL
dc.ewu.edu/do/oai/
Last updated
2026-07-24
Source record
OAI-PMH GetRecord
citation

Evans, Rosemary Christmas. Mathematical modeling of lead climbing falls. Thesis thesis, 2025. https://dc.ewu.edu/theses/972