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DePaul University

Growing pains: scale and mission in the fair trade textile sector

Abstract

dc:description.abstract

<p>This thesis examines the recent incorporation of factory production into fair trade textile production via a new fair trade certification program called the Apparel and Linens Program, launched by FairTrade USA. I argue that this expansion in the scale of production results in a dilution of fair trade’s commitment to improve the livelihoods of producers. To illustrate this argument, I first draw upon Polanyian and Marxist theories in order to theoretically ground the foundations of fair trade as well as its current trajectory. Additionally, I incorporate interviews, which I conducted at textile cooperatives in India, along with a content analysis that compares the Apparel and Linens program to the Fair Trade Federation’s Code of Practice, and a discourse analysis of the fair trade marketing campaigns of two large clothing corporations, Prana and Eileen Fisher. I conclude that the shift in property rights that takes place in the transition from cooperative to factory production results in a less beneficial arrangement for producers, who were once central to fair trade’s mission</p>

Degree

thesis:*
Level thesis:degree_level
Thesis
Discipline thesis:degree_discipline
International Studies
Year dc:date.available
2013

Author and committee

dc:creator, dc:contributor.*
Author dc:creator
  • Johnson, Karlee

Subjects

dc:subject × 5

Identifiers

dc:identifier.*
Repository record dc:identifier
https://via.library.depaul.edu/etd/155
OAI identifier oai:identifier
oai:via.library.depaul.edu:etd-1159

Chain of custody

source
Harvested from
DePaul University
Base URL
via.library.depaul.edu/do/oai/
Last updated
2026-07-24
Source record
OAI-PMH GetRecord
citation

Johnson, Karlee. Growing pains: scale and mission in the fair trade textile sector. Thesis thesis, 2013. https://via.library.depaul.edu/etd/155