{"id":{"repo_id":"de-montfort","oai_identifier":"oai:dora.dmu.ac.uk:2086/25004"},"canonical_url":"https://search.dev.ndltd.org/etd/de-montfort/oai:dora.dmu.ac.uk:2086/25004","repository":{"repo_id":"de-montfort","name":"De Montfort University","base_url":"https://dora.dmu.ac.uk/server/oai/request"},"display":{"title":"INSTRUMENTATION AND CONTROL OF AN INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINE","abstract":"To compete with garment manufacturers world-wide , it is essential that the British sewing industry automates. In order to achieve this automation sewing machines must be capable of measuring and controlling their performance. The advancement of practical, automated, high speed sewing machines, which are capable of optimising sewn seam quality, will greatly benefit the garment industry. Research on sewing ability has led to a greater understanding of the complex interactions involved in joining two or more plies of material with thread. Analysis of the joining system has become important with the increase in the sewing speed. The problems related to sewing ability increase with the higher sewing speeds used to join the newer textile materials. Changes to finer gauge knits and fabrics finished with different dyes and finishes, together with widespread acceptance of synthetic fibres in both fabrics and sewing threads, create new sewing problems. A number of researchers have made recommendations on how to minimise the problems, however, as the apparel industry becomes more automated new requirements become desirable, for example sewing machines with no direct control exerted by the operator on the sewing machine or the fabric. In addition sewing machines in the manufacturing environment will be required to be more flexible to perform equally efficiently across a wider range of fabrics. The dynamics of the fabric feeding system, and the needle and looper thread interactions are the prime variables investigated. This research concentrates on the modelling and control of the three thread overlock sewing machine such that optimal quality seam, which makes up the garments, is achieved. The sewing machine is envisaged as two systems, the fabric feeding systemand the sewing thread dynamic system. To control the sewing thread dynamic system, an intelligent knowledge based supervisory control system is developed. During sewing operation, some problems such as fluff accumulation and twists in the thread alter the thread system dynamics. To overcome such variations, the sewing thread system is decomposed into three sub-systems, each having its own low level controller to control the thread displacement per stitch. . Two types of low level basic direct control namely the Adaptive Model Following Control (AMFC) and Fuzzy Logic Control (FLC) are implemented on each of the sub-systems and comparisons between the two type of methodologies are made. These comparisons are based on the performance, robustness, and ease of implementation. It shows the similarities and differences in performance with respect to the designed controller. Different approaches can be adopted towards the automation of the sewing machine and these are discussed. The chosen design is based on a supervisory control system constructed as a multi-layered hierarchical structure where the lowest level is the basic direct control and the higher level is the supervisory control which influences the process indirectly. This enables the designer to increase the level of automation in steps by including or considering more number of variables. This approach has also been chosen because its adaptation mechanism imitates the expert sewing operator in controlling the sewing performance.","abstract_html":"To compete with garment manufacturers world-wide , it is essential that the British sewing industry automates. In order to achieve this automation sewing machines must be capable of measuring and controlling their performance. The advancement of practical, automated, high speed sewing machines, which are capable of optimising sewn seam quality, will greatly benefit the garment industry. Research on sewing ability has led to a greater understanding of the complex interactions involved in joining two or more plies of material with thread. Analysis of the joining system has become important with the increase in the sewing speed. The problems related to sewing ability increase with the higher sewing speeds used to join the newer textile materials. Changes to finer gauge knits and fabrics finished with different dyes and finishes, together with widespread acceptance of synthetic fibres in both fabrics and sewing threads, create new sewing problems. A number of researchers have made recommendations on how to minimise the problems, however, as the apparel industry becomes more automated new requirements become desirable, for example sewing machines with no direct control exerted by the operator on the sewing machine or the fabric. In addition sewing machines in the manufacturing environment will be required to be more flexible to perform equally efficiently across a wider range of fabrics. The dynamics of the fabric feeding system, and the needle and looper thread interactions are the prime variables investigated. This research concentrates on the modelling and control of the three thread overlock sewing machine such that optimal quality seam, which makes up the garments, is achieved. The sewing machine is envisaged as two systems, the fabric feeding systemand the sewing thread dynamic system. To control the sewing thread dynamic system, an intelligent knowledge based supervisory control system is developed. During sewing operation, some problems such as fluff accumulation and twists in the thread alter the thread system dynamics. To overcome such variations, the sewing thread system is decomposed into three sub-systems, each having its own low level controller to control the thread displacement per stitch. . Two types of low level basic direct control namely the Adaptive Model Following Control (AMFC) and Fuzzy Logic Control (FLC) are implemented on each of the sub-systems and comparisons between the two type of methodologies are made. These comparisons are based on the performance, robustness, and ease of implementation. It shows the similarities and differences in performance with respect to the designed controller. Different approaches can be adopted towards the automation of the sewing machine and these are discussed. The chosen design is based on a supervisory control system constructed as a multi-layered hierarchical structure where the lowest level is the basic direct control and the higher level is the supervisory control which influences the process indirectly. This enables the designer to increase the level of automation in steps by including or considering more number of variables. This approach has also been chosen because its adaptation mechanism imitates the expert sewing operator in controlling the sewing performance.","abstract_has_math":false,"creators":["MATTIE-SULEIMAN, EMAN A"],"institution":"De Montfort University","degree_name":"PhD","degree_level":"Doctoral","degree_discipline":null,"degree_department":null,"school":null,"contributors":[],"advisors":[],"committee_chairs":[],"committee_members":[],"year":1997,"date_issued":"1997-10","date_published":"1997-10","updated_at":"2026-07-24T06:18:44Z","subjects":[],"languages":[],"rights":[],"rights_urls":["https://dora.dmu.ac.uk/bitstreams/1dba6a80-084f-4376-9262-2722b7d695c5/download"],"identifier_entries":[]},"links":{"outbound_url":null,"outbound_label":null,"outbound_source":null},"metadata_groups":[{"id":"people","label":"People","entries":[{"key":"dc:creator","label":"Author","values":["MATTIE-SULEIMAN, EMAN A"]}]},{"id":"academic_context","label":"Academic Context","entries":[{"key":"dc:date.issued","label":"Date","values":["1997-10"]},{"key":"dc:publisher.department","label":"Dc Publisher Department","values":["Faculty of Arts, Design and Humanities"]},{"key":"dc:publisher.institution","label":"Dc Publisher Institution","values":["De Montfort University"]},{"key":"dc:relation.isreferencedby","label":"Dc Relation Isreferencedby","values":["https://hdl.handle.net/2086/25004"]},{"key":"dc:type","label":"Dc Type","values":["Thesis or dissertation"]},{"key":"dc:type.qualificationlevel","label":"Dc Type Qualificationlevel","values":["Doctoral"]},{"key":"dc:type.qualificationname","label":"Dc Type Qualificationname","values":["PhD"]}]},{"id":"language_rights","label":"Language and Rights","entries":[{"key":"dc:rights","label":"Dc Rights","values":["https://dora.dmu.ac.uk/bitstreams/1dba6a80-084f-4376-9262-2722b7d695c5/download"]}]},{"id":"identifiers","label":"Identifiers","entries":[{"key":"dc:identifier.uri","label":"Identifier URI","values":["https://dora.dmu.ac.uk/bitstreams/2f1dd9f8-b1d5-415b-9895-38b061917409/download"]}]},{"id":"additional","label":"Additional Metadata","entries":[{"key":"dc:description.abstract","label":"Abstract","values":["To compete with garment manufacturers world-wide , it is essential that the British sewing industry automates. In order to achieve this automation sewing machines must be capable of measuring and controlling their performance. The advancement of practical, automated, high speed sewing machines, which are capable of optimising sewn seam quality, will greatly benefit the garment industry. Research on sewing ability has led to a greater understanding of the complex interactions involved in joining two or more plies of material with thread. Analysis of the joining system has become important with the increase in the sewing speed. The problems related to sewing ability increase with the higher sewing speeds used to join the newer textile materials. Changes to finer gauge knits and fabrics finished with different dyes and finishes, together with widespread acceptance of synthetic fibres in both fabrics and sewing threads, create new sewing problems. A number of researchers have made recommendations on how to minimise the problems, however, as the apparel industry becomes more automated new requirements become desirable, for example sewing machines with no direct control exerted by the operator on the sewing machine or the fabric. In addition sewing machines in the manufacturing environment will be required to be more flexible to perform equally efficiently across a wider range of fabrics. The dynamics of the fabric feeding system, and the needle and looper thread interactions are the prime variables investigated. This research concentrates on the modelling and control of the three thread overlock sewing machine such that optimal quality seam, which makes up the garments, is achieved. The sewing machine is envisaged as two systems, the fabric feeding systemand the sewing thread dynamic system. To control the sewing thread dynamic system, an intelligent knowledge based supervisory control system is developed. During sewing operation, some problems such as fluff accumulation and twists in the thread alter the thread system dynamics. To overcome such variations, the sewing thread system is decomposed into three sub-systems, each having its own low level controller to control the thread displacement per stitch. . Two types of low level basic direct control namely the Adaptive Model Following Control (AMFC) and Fuzzy Logic Control (FLC) are implemented on each of the sub-systems and comparisons between the two type of methodologies are made. These comparisons are based on the performance, robustness, and ease of implementation. It shows the similarities and differences in performance with respect to the designed controller. Different approaches can be adopted towards the automation of the sewing machine and these are discussed. The chosen design is based on a supervisory control system constructed as a multi-layered hierarchical structure where the lowest level is the basic direct control and the higher level is the supervisory control which influences the process indirectly. This enables the designer to increase the level of automation in steps by including or considering more number of variables. 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In addition sewing machines in the manufacturing environment will be required to be more flexible to perform equally efficiently across a wider range of fabrics. The dynamics of the fabric feeding system, and the needle and looper thread interactions are the prime variables investigated. This research concentrates on the modelling and control of the three thread overlock sewing machine such that optimal quality seam, which makes up the garments, is achieved. The sewing machine is envisaged as two systems, the fabric feeding systemand the sewing thread dynamic system. To control the sewing thread dynamic system, an intelligent knowledge based supervisory control system is developed. During sewing operation, some problems such as fluff accumulation and twists in the thread alter the thread system dynamics. To overcome such variations, the sewing thread system is decomposed into three sub-systems, each having its own low level controller to control the thread displacement per stitch. . Two types of low level basic direct control namely the Adaptive Model Following Control (AMFC) and Fuzzy Logic Control (FLC) are implemented on each of the sub-systems and comparisons between the two type of methodologies are made. These comparisons are based on the performance, robustness, and ease of implementation. It shows the similarities and differences in performance with respect to the designed controller. Different approaches can be adopted towards the automation of the sewing machine and these are discussed. The chosen design is based on a supervisory control system constructed as a multi-layered hierarchical structure where the lowest level is the basic direct control and the higher level is the supervisory control which influences the process indirectly. This enables the designer to increase the level of automation in steps by including or considering more number of variables. 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