{"id":{"repo_id":"buffalo","oai_identifier":"oai:ubir.buffalo.edu:10477/86712"},"canonical_url":"https://search.dev.ndltd.org/etd/buffalo/oai:ubir.buffalo.edu:10477/86712","repository":{"repo_id":"buffalo","name":"Buffalo","base_url":"https://ubir.buffalo.edu/oai/request"},"display":{"title":"Rest for the Dead, Peace for the Living: Burial Textiles in Pre-Modern Finland","abstract":"Ph.D.","abstract_html":"Ph.D.","abstract_has_math":false,"creators":["Ruhl, Erika; 0000-0002-2014-690X"],"institution":"State University of New York at Buffalo","degree_name":null,"degree_level":null,"degree_discipline":null,"degree_department":null,"school":null,"contributors":["Zubrow, Ezra","Anthropology"],"advisors":[],"committee_chairs":[],"committee_members":[],"year":2025,"date_issued":"2025-02-21T21:36:45Z","date_published":"2025-02-21T21:36:45Z","updated_at":"2026-07-27T19:05:34Z","subjects":["archaeology"],"languages":["eng"],"rights":["Users of works found in University at Buffalo Institutional Repository (UBIR) are responsible for identifying and contacting the copyright owner for permission to reuse. University at Buffalo Libraries do not manage rights for copyright-protected works and cannot assist with permissions.","Copyright retained by author."],"rights_urls":[],"identifier_entries":[]},"links":{"outbound_url":"http://hdl.handle.net/10477/86712","outbound_label":"Handle","outbound_source":"dc:identifier"},"metadata_groups":[{"id":"people","label":"People","entries":[{"key":"dc:contributor","label":"Contributor","values":["Zubrow, Ezra","Anthropology"]},{"key":"dc:creator","label":"Author","values":["Ruhl, Erika; 0000-0002-2014-690X"]}]},{"id":"academic_context","label":"Academic Context","entries":[{"key":"dc:date","label":"Dc Date","values":["2025-02-21T21:36:45Z","2020"]},{"key":"dc:publisher","label":"Institution","values":["State University of New York at Buffalo"]},{"key":"dc:type","label":"Dc Type","values":["Text","Dissertation"]}]},{"id":"subjects_keywords","label":"Subjects and Keywords","entries":[{"key":"dc:subject","label":"Dc Subject","values":["archaeology"]}]},{"id":"language_rights","label":"Language and Rights","entries":[{"key":"dc:language","label":"Dc Language","values":["eng"]},{"key":"dc:rights","label":"Dc Rights","values":["Users of works found in University at Buffalo Institutional Repository (UBIR) are responsible for identifying and contacting the copyright owner for permission to reuse. University at Buffalo Libraries do not manage rights for copyright-protected works and cannot assist with permissions.","Copyright retained by author."]}]},{"id":"identifiers","label":"Identifiers","entries":[{"key":"dc:identifier","label":"Identifier","values":["http://hdl.handle.net/10477/86712"]}]},{"id":"additional","label":"Additional Metadata","entries":[{"key":"dc:description","label":"Description","values":["Ph.D.","When is a sock more than simply a sock? Two key types of clothing are present in this dataset of pre-modern northern Finnish burials: (1) re-purposed items used in life and then used as burial clothes (2) re-made items crafted from second-hand materials specifically for burial. Despite ostensibly serving the same purpose, re-purposed items remain functional, while re-made items are often hastily assembled from less-suitable materials. While some items are consistently re-made or repurposed, other items fall into both categories. Re-made items were knowingly crafted with different characteristics than their re-purposed counterparts, raising questions about the difference between providing for the dead on practical and symbolic levels. To further examine the textiles associated with this collection, this project examines detailed data on (1) fiber type; (2) thread twist (s/z, ply, and angle); (3) threads per cm (warp/weft); (4) weave pattern; (5) color; (6) item composition; (7) stitch and/or pin holes; (8) errors in creation; (9) quality; (10) evidence for original use; (11) evidence for secondary use; (12) evidence for mending; (13) wear patterns and usewear. The differences in burial clothing choice highlights the malleability of textile use, re-use and re-making in the past, offering a window into the lifecycle of archaeological textiles. Utilizing design theory as well as material and technological choice to explore the crafts' decisions inherent in this process, and symbolic interactionism to explore individual identity and choice, this dissertation explores the complicated picture presented in re-purposed and re-made burial items at Oulu Cathedral and the churches of Haukipudas, Hailuoto and Keminmaa, ranging from the fifteenth to nineteenth centuries with a particular emphasis on the pre-modern era.","**To request an accessible version of the file(s) associated with this item, contact library@buffalo.edu. Please include the item's persistent URL [http://hdl.handle.net/. . .] in your request.**"]},{"key":"dc:format","label":"Dc Format","values":["application/pdf"]},{"key":"dc:title","label":"Title","values":["Rest for the Dead, Peace for the Living: Burial Textiles in Pre-Modern Finland"]}]}],"canonical_facts":{"dc:contributor":["Zubrow, Ezra","Anthropology"],"dc:creator":["Ruhl, Erika; 0000-0002-2014-690X"],"dc:date":["2025-02-21T21:36:45Z","2020"],"dc:description":["Ph.D.","When is a sock more than simply a sock? Two key types of clothing are present in this dataset of pre-modern northern Finnish burials: (1) re-purposed items used in life and then used as burial clothes (2) re-made items crafted from second-hand materials specifically for burial. Despite ostensibly serving the same purpose, re-purposed items remain functional, while re-made items are often hastily assembled from less-suitable materials. While some items are consistently re-made or repurposed, other items fall into both categories. Re-made items were knowingly crafted with different characteristics than their re-purposed counterparts, raising questions about the difference between providing for the dead on practical and symbolic levels. To further examine the textiles associated with this collection, this project examines detailed data on (1) fiber type; (2) thread twist (s/z, ply, and angle); (3) threads per cm (warp/weft); (4) weave pattern; (5) color; (6) item composition; (7) stitch and/or pin holes; (8) errors in creation; (9) quality; (10) evidence for original use; (11) evidence for secondary use; (12) evidence for mending; (13) wear patterns and usewear. The differences in burial clothing choice highlights the malleability of textile use, re-use and re-making in the past, offering a window into the lifecycle of archaeological textiles. Utilizing design theory as well as material and technological choice to explore the crafts' decisions inherent in this process, and symbolic interactionism to explore individual identity and choice, this dissertation explores the complicated picture presented in re-purposed and re-made burial items at Oulu Cathedral and the churches of Haukipudas, Hailuoto and Keminmaa, ranging from the fifteenth to nineteenth centuries with a particular emphasis on the pre-modern era.","**To request an accessible version of the file(s) associated with this item, contact library@buffalo.edu. Please include the item's persistent URL [http://hdl.handle.net/. . .] in your request.**"],"dc:format":["application/pdf"],"dc:identifier":["http://hdl.handle.net/10477/86712"],"dc:language":["eng"],"dc:publisher":["State University of New York at Buffalo"],"dc:rights":["Users of works found in University at Buffalo Institutional Repository (UBIR) are responsible for identifying and contacting the copyright owner for permission to reuse. University at Buffalo Libraries do not manage rights for copyright-protected works and cannot assist with permissions.","Copyright retained by author."],"dc:subject":["archaeology"],"dc:title":["Rest for the Dead, Peace for the Living: Burial Textiles in Pre-Modern Finland"],"dc:type":["Text","Dissertation"]},"updated_at":"2026-07-27T19:05:34Z"}