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Showing 1 to 20 of 117 for “"wave height"”.
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A Capacitance Wavestaff and Measurements of Wave Height Decay in the Surf Zone
<p>A wavestaff system utilizing capacitance was developed to measure wave heights in the surf zone. Data were used to test the assumption that wave height decays linearly across the surf zone. The instrument system consisted of two wavestaffs and housing which contained the needed electronic …
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Analysis of Virginia Barrier Island Shoreline Movement and Correlations to Sea Level, Wave Height Changes, and Teleconnection Patterns
… the effect of sea level rise, changes in wave height, and teleconnection pattern (AO, NAO, and MEI) correlations to shoreline location changes to the islands and inlet location and width changes. Locations of island shorelines were determined from satellite and aircraft images using ArcGIS …
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Measuring surface ocean wave height and directional spectra using an Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler from an autonomous underwater vehicle
… technology which is capable of measuring surface wave height and directional information, however it is generally limited to rigid, bottom mounted applications which limit its capabilities for measuring deep water waves. By employing an upward looking ADCP on a moving platform, such as an …
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Measuring surface ocean wave height and directional spectra using an Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler from an autonomous underwater vehicle
… technology which is capable of measuring surface wave height and directional information, however it is generally limited to rigid, bottom mounted applications which limit its capabilities for measuring deep water waves. By employing an upward looking ADCP on a moving platform, such as an …
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PREDICTIONS OF SIGNIFICANT WAVE HEIGHT IN LAKE OKEECHOBEE, FLORIDA USING APPROACHES RELATED TO SIMPLIFIED STOCHASTIC PROCEDURE AND WAVE ENERGY SPECTRUM
Prediction of significant wave height is critically important to the physical and environmental impact study of coastal, estuarine or large lake environments. In this study, development of predictive models for the determination of time varying significant wave heights in Lake Okeechobee, Florida …
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Models for ocean waves
Ocean waves represent an important design factor in many coastal engineering applications. Although extreme wave height is usually considered the single most important of these factors there are other important aspects that require consideration. These include the probability distribution of wave …
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A coordinated UAV deployment based on stereovision reconnaissance for low risk water assessment
… that are capable of accurately estimating the wave height in an aquatic environment, if the region identified by the leader is characterised as having a low wave height, the area is deemed suitable for landing. A second UAV, “the follower UAV”, equipped with a payload such as an Autonomous …
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Analysing modelled nearshore wave climate variability and change as relevant to the traditional handline fishery of the South African South Coast
… have been the subject of recent research, the wave climate aspect of the nearshore sea state has not. In a recent project conducted by the Department of Environmental Affairs and the Council for Scientific and Industrial Research, Simulating WAves Nearshore model outputs spanning 17 years (from …
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Directional wavenumber characteristics of short sea waves
Interest in short waves on the ocean surface has been growing over the last three decades because they play an important role in surface electromagnetic (e.m.) scattering. Currently radars and scatterometers which use e.m. scattering to remotely examine the ocean can produce estimates of the …
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Characteristics of ocean gravity waves off the Cape South West coast
Ocean gravity waves have been recorded near Melkbosstrand with a Wemelsfelder float type wave recorder on a sea tower situated in water 13m deep and one Kilometre offshore. The half hour records, taken twice daily between July 1972 - June 1973, have been analysed in a format uniform with that of …
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Computational Fluid Dynamic Study of Heaving-to
… storm tactic in heavy weather seas with the waves. This interaction causes the wave height in the wake to be reduced. The fluid flow in the top layer of the wave is seen to move with the wake as the hull drifts with the wind. This movement of the top layer of the wave provides a vertical …
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Wave Characteristics and Transformations on Sub-Horizontal (Type B) Shore Platforms on the East Coast of the North Island, New Zealand
… study were to: provide detailed descriptions of wave transformation processes; identify morphological controls on wave processes; and investigate possible morphological implications. Six platforms with a range of widths (80–270 m) and gradients (0.2– 1.3°) were selected from Gisborne and …
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Setup in the surfzone
Surfzone wave height transformation and wave-breaking-driven increases in the mean sea level (setup) are examined on alongshore-uniform beaches with alongshore homogeneous and inhomogeneous wave forcing. While previously derived models predict wave heights adequately (root-mean-square errors …
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Setup in the surfzone
Surfzone wave height transformation and wave-breaking-driven increases in the mean sea level (setup) are examined on alongshore-uniform beaches with alongshore homogeneous and inhomogeneous wave forcing. While previously derived models predict wave heights adequately (root-mean-square errors …
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Structural evaluation of fixed offshore platforms
… Experimental data correlating wind and wave height spectra to observed structure response is presented. Statistical Energy Analysis is introduced as a method for predicting the dynamic response of offshore towers to random waves. The method is superior to the classical random vibration …
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Wave-induced liquefaction processes in marine sediments
… seabed liquefaction induced by progressive water waves is vital for the protection of marine structures from damage to the structure foundations. The residual liquefaction in sedimentary seabed has been found to be of progressive nature and experiments have also demonstrated that the liquefied …
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Effects of Sediment on Growth and Survival of Various Juvenile Morphologies of the Scleractinian Cora, Oculina Arbuscula (Verrill)
… rates vary in relation to wind speed and wave height in the SAB, 2) the ability of juvenile O. arbuscula to shed sediment depends on skeletal morphology, and 3) inorganic sedimentation reduces growth and survival of encrusting O. arbuscula juveniles more than those with a branching …
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Improving Electromagnetic Bias Estimates
… TOPEX/Poseidon and Jason-1 satellite sea surface height (SSH) estimates. Due to incomplete understanding of the physical processes which cause the bias, current operational models are based on empirical relationships between the bias wind speed and significant wave height. These models reduce RMS …
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Coastal Wetland Dynamics Under Sea-level Rise and Wetland Restoration in the Northern Gulf of Mexico using Bayesian Multilevel Models and a Web Tool
… productivity, tidal range, coastal slope, and wave height – all interacting with river-borne sediment availability, indicated by hydrological regimes. These interactions have not been comprehensively investigated before. I further modified this model to assess the efficacy of restoration …
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A Parameterized Approach to Estimating Wave Attenuation from Living Shorelines
… shape, and structural characteristics, but the wave environment in which they exist can be quiescent or extreme. The work presented in this paper explores the hydrodynamic effects of living shoreline features in such a way that can be generalized across a range of varying physical environments. …
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