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Showing 1 to 14 of 14 for “"Surfzone"”.
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Setup in the surfzone
Surfzone wave height transformation and wave-breaking-driven increases in the mean sea level (setup) are examined on alongshore-uniform beaches with alongshore homogeneous and inhomogeneous wave forcing. While previously derived models predict wave heights adequately (root-mean-square errors …
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Setup in the surfzone
Surfzone wave height transformation and wave-breaking-driven increases in the mean sea level (setup) are examined on alongshore-uniform beaches with alongshore homogeneous and inhomogeneous wave forcing. While previously derived models predict wave heights adequately (root-mean-square errors …
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Observations of surfzone vorticity using optical remote sensing
The surfzone is the dynamic interface between the land and ocean, where waves shoal and break as they reach shallow water near the shore. Currents and circulation patterns in the surfzone transport sediment, nutrients, pollutants, and other materials along and across the coast, and can create …
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Hydrodynamic and morphodynamic responses to surfzone seafloor perturbations
… sloping sides were excavated in the inner surfzone seafloor. Observations of the infilling holes were used to make the first field estimates of the surfzone morphological diffusivity, which describes the rate of seafloor smoothing by downslope sediment transport. To improve the temporal …
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Effects of surfzone wave transformation on swash dynamics
… dependent on processes occurring inside the surfzone. The observations took place on a steep, intermediate beach on the east coast (Tairua Beach), and a low-sloping, dissipative beach located on the west coast of New Zealand (Ngarunui Beach, Raglan), and aimed at improving the understanding …
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Observations of Surfzone Vorticity Using Optical Remote Sensing
The surfzone is the dynamic interface between the land and ocean, where waves shoal and break as they reach shallow water near the shore. Currents and circulation patterns in the surfzone transport sediment, nutrients, pollutants, and other materials along and across the coast, and can create …
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Hydrodynamic and morphodynamic responses to surfzone seafloor perturbations
… sloping sides were excavated in the inner surfzone seafloor. Observations of the infilling holes were used to make the first field estimates of the surfzone morphological diffusivity, which describes the rate of seafloor smoothing by downslope sediment transport. To improve the temporal …
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Cross-shore transformation of breaking random waves in the surfzone
The transformation of breaking waves in the surfzone, including the evolution of the roller, the foamy air-water mixture on the surface of a breaking wave, and the turbulence, determines the wave-driven onshore-directed mass transport, the vertical structure of the compensating return flow …
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Cross-shore Transformation of Breaking Random Waves in the Surfzone
The transformation of breaking waves in the surfzone, including the evolution of the roller, the foamy air-water mixture on the surface of a breaking wave, and the turbulence, determines the wave-driven onshore-directed mass transport, the vertical structure of the compensating return flow …
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Observations and modeling of wave-acceleration-induced sediment transport in the surfzone
… velocity and acceleration statistics across the surfzone, but it underpredicts acceleration skewness on top of the sandbar. As a result, the coupled wave-sediment transport model underpredicts sediment transport, and thus fails to move the sandbar onshore. Although the coupled wave and sediment …
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Observations and modeling of wave-acceleration-induced sediment transport in the surfzone
… velocity and acceleration statistics across the surfzone, but it underpredicts acceleration skewness on top of the sandbar. As a result, the coupled wave-sediment transport model underpredicts sediment transport, and thus fails to move the sandbar onshore. Although the coupled wave and sediment …
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Infragravity waves over topography : generation, dissipation, and reflection
… of infragravity energy observed in the surfzone is the result of nonlinear energy transfers from infragravity waves back to swell and wind waves. The energy transfers are sensitive to the shallow water bottom topography. On nonplanar beach profiles the transfers, and thus the amount of …
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Infragravity waves over topography: generation, dissipation, and reflection
… of infragravity energy observed in the surfzone is the result of nonlinear energy transfers from infragravity waves back to swell and wind waves. The energy transfers are sensitive to the shallow water bottom topography. On nonplanar beach profiles the transfers, and thus the amount of …
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Shore-parallel sediment transport by waves and tides in inner shelf waters
… and velocity data collected just outside the surfzone (in two meters depth) on the south shore of Martha's Vineyard, MA, we compared the variations in net alongshore transport during different wave-current conditions, studying the effect of the wave-current phase to show that it can have a …